
Whatever reason motivates you to start walking
west, when you reach Compostela you are entitled to wear
the scallop shell, the universal insignia of a Santiago
pilgrim. 
These days, when most pilgrims only walk west and then take modern transportation home
from Compostela, people put on the shell when they start out. Medieval pilgrims liked
insignia: pilgrims returning from Jerusalem brought palm branches, and were known as
Palmers, while those returning from Rome wore the crossed keys of St. Peter, and were
called Romers.
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How the relationship between
the shell and the Santiago pilgrimage evolved is
not entirely clear, but it started early. One theory
is that because Compostela lies so close to the
ocean and scallops are common on the Galician coast,
early pilgrims could easily gather the shells and
take them back home. Already before our Christian
calendar the Roman legions marched to Finisterre
(the end of the world) at the Coast of the Dead
to see the sun sink into the underworld. They came
back with a shell, to prove their rebirth. Think
of "The birth of Venus" painting by Boticelli,
where the goddess of Love is on the half shell.
Yummy. Read the shocking story of Venus' birth . |
Another version says that
one of the earliest of St. James's miracles was his rescue
of a knight who had fallen into the sea. When the knight
arose from his watery grave, he was covered with cockle
shells, and thus they became linked with Santiago.
You will see the shell
everywhere, from a medieval gravestone in Roncesvalles
to the myriad statues of Santiago Peregrino. Wearing it
identifies you as a member of the special confraternity
of pilgrims to Compostela.
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