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These pages are a report
of our camino adventures, written and uploaded while we
were actually "on trail". The pictures and links
were added upon our return home.
Fourth Instalment
(of 5)
Leon started
off as a Roman City. The original city walls still exist.
It has a nice city center with a good mix of old churches,
shops, homes, restaurants and bars. Two buildings stood
out: The pilgrims hospital of San Marcos with its beautiful
exterior. Above the main entrance is St. James, depicted
as "Matamoros", the slayer of Moors.
Leon cathedral |
cathedral clock |
Cathedral windows |
The other was the cathedral. It is one of the most important
churches, built in the North French Gothic style. They
started building it in 1254, but it was only completed
in the 16th Century. The stained glass windows are something
else. The patterns, the colors, the light. They illuminated
the church in a magical glow. The religious art inside
was also superb.
Andrea & Tina cooking
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From Leon to Hospital
de Orbigo. It was cold and very windy.
There were two refugios. We took the one across
the longest bridge on the Camino (built in the
Middle Ages). This parish refugio had a courtyard
with a stove. Andrea & Tina cooked a great
meal. A nice change from the mediocre restaurant
or refugio dinners, which we have had lately.
The next day we first
went to Astorga and then on
to Rabanal del Camino. Astorga
is a Roman city with a beautifyl cathedral and
the bishop's palace, designed by the famous
Catalan Antonio Gaudi. There are several photos
of these impressive buildings in the "Slide
Shows".
In Rabanal we had the coldest
night. We slept in our sleeping bags with most
of our clothes on. |
I have not talked about the storks. We saw them on every church
tower. Sometimes 4 nests close together. We also saw them
feeding their young. Very unsusual and nice. I must have
taken at least a dozen pics in various places. Some are
below.
Stork communue |
Big babies |
Snake for dinner |
We are changed people. If you
believe that. On Monday, June 10, we threw off our burdens
and sins (in the form of Sarasota shells) at the Iron
Cross on the Montes de Leon mountain.
For the past 2000 years pilgrims have taken stones, representing
their burdens and sins, from their hometown or pilgrimage
starting point and left them at this spot. In doing so
they freed themselves of their problems, sins and burdens.
The Romans, on their way to Finisterra, started it and
offered them to Jupiter (God of the travelers). In the
Middle Ages, the catholic church put a cross on the mountain
and it became a Christian symbol.
2000 years of pain
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El Acebo
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There was no shepherd.
The black sheep was the leader |
The weather and the scenery were beautiful
for the past week. Green hills and valleys. Morning mist.
Many wild yellow broom. High up in the hills grew reddish
heather and on the highest hill tops there was still some
snow. This last week was one of the top 3 or 4 favorite
camino scenery areas sofar.
In Ponferrada we stayed
in a beautiful and brand-new refugio. Everybody was welcomed
with a hug from one of the lady hosts. The 4 of us had
a room to ourselves.
On June 11 we went to Villafranca
del Bierzo. A beautiful little old town. We met
some interesting people in the town square. Janneke and
Heinz, two of the Dutch pilgrims of the website, linked
here under "Literature". What a small world.
Santiago Church, with Doorway
of Pardon |
Cemetery behind church |
Beautiful sunset |
That night we slept next to the Romanesque
St James (Santiagio) church. The north wing was called
"Doorway of Pardon". When pilgrims got very
ill and could not continue their journey to Santiago,
they could get forgiveness for their sins in this church
and would not have to continue their pilgrimage. From
the cemetery next door, it was clear how often this was
necessary.
The next day we had another difficult,
but beautiful trip to O Cebreiro. We
had to climb from 500 to 1250 meters. The scenery was
fantastic. The weather was hot; 30 plus °C (90 plus °F)
and for the last few miles it was straight up. On a gravel
path. Aargh.
We were worn out when we got there.
On top of the world. You could see forever. It was so
clear, I'm sure that I could see Sarasota, Florida. It
was fantastic. Tina and Andrea were already there. They
had booked a place in one of the many private guest houses.
This was one of our most scenic camino places so far.
Jan climbing to 1250 mtr (4000ft) |
View from O Cebreiro |
Laundry and cows |
 On Friday, June
14 we passed the 100 kilometers marker to Santiago. That
means another 3 or 4 days before we reach our goal of
this camino.
Some of our family and friends have
complained (by e-mail) that we don't update our website
logbook often enough. We would have loved to do this more
frequently, but the internet cafes are few and far between.
Most of the towns we visit seem to be stuck in the Middle
Ages. Well, that's part of their charm of course.
We are now in Portomarin.
It is Friday night June 14, 2002. More about this town
and the rest of our camino in the next instalment.
Go here to
the last instalment.
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