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These pages are a report
of our camino adventures, written and uploaded while we
were actually "on trail". The pictures and links
were added upon our return home.
Fifth Instalment
(of 5)
Half a century ago, the city of Portomarin
lay in a valley, which was then dammed off and flooded.
The new reservoir was installed with power generators,
as a means of generating electricity for the nearby provinces.
Most of the old town had disappeared under the waves.
However, the most important buildings were first taken
down, brick by brick, numbered, and then rebuilt on top
of the hill in the newly created town center. I studied
some of the rebuilt churches' exteriors. It was remarkable.
They looked like they had been there for hundreds of years.
The St Nicholas church in the new town square is a good
example. It looked like it has been there for many hundreds
of years. Look how the entrance step is worn by the thousands
of pilgrims and locals over all this time.
St Nicholas church rebuilt |
Entrance step worn away |
Pedronzo. Last night before
Santiago |
From Portomarin we walked to Santiago
de Compostela in 3 days. The first day we did
40 kilometers. It took us through some nice countryside
with moderate hills, but with a hot burning sun. The next
day we did 35 kilometers through miles and miles of eucalyptus
woods. With the hot sun and the evaporating eucalyptus
oils smelling so nice, it was like walking in a sauna
(though fully dressed this time).
Today, Monday, June 17 (our
28th pilgrims day) we arrived in Santiago. We
could already see the cathedral from at least 5 miles
away. With its Baroque towers, added in the 18th century,
soaring high over the Praza do Obridorio, the Cathedral
is a monument to St James and one of the great shrines
of Christendom. The present cathedral dates from the 11th
and 12th centuries and stands on the site of the original
9th century basilica.
We immediately went to the Praza de
Immaculada, where we received our Compostelanas (certificates) with our first
names translated into Latin. Andrea & Tina surprised
us with flowers and some small presents. How thoughtful
and nice. We all congratulated each other for completing
this tough 800 km camino.
The Cathedral |
St James welcoming us |
St James in Portico of Glory |
Flowers from our wives |
We then went into the cathedral, through
the famous Portico da Gloria (The Doors of Glory), the
same interior that welcomed pilgrims in Medieval times.
A mass had just started to celebrate the arrival of the
new pilgrims. The church was packed predominantly with
tourists but there were also a dozen pilgrims.
We were very fortunate to see a Botafumeiro
Ceremony. The botafumeiro is a giant incense container.
During medieval times, this ceremony had a practical purpose.
The incense from the giant container masked the body-odor
from the many pilgrims who visited the cathedral. The
botafumeiro is made of silver-plated brass and weighs
about 200 pounds. It hangs on a rope from a pulley in
the center of the cathedral transept, and it's swung by
several men called tiraboleiros. They swing it so high,
over the heads of the congregation, that it almost touches
the cathedral ceiling. Quite a spectacle.
After the mass we went upstairs, over
the main altar, to embrace the statue of St James. An
old pilgrims ritual, with the belief that this somehow
brings his spiritual power directly to bear on the pilgrim.
Setting up the botafumeiro
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Swinging on ropes
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botafumeiro
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St James altar |
Willem embraces St James |
St James casket in the crypt |
Satiago de Compostela
is the end of the pilgrimage. The 800 kilometers hike
has led us through fantastic scenery and more than 230
towns and villages. We have made it. According to 13th
century church law this has earned us an indulgence of
a remission of one third of one's sins. Let's drink to
that.
Soaking my feet after 800
kilometers |
We ate the local delicacy.
Squid |
Santiago
cathedral in the sunset
The sun also sets on our trip |
Tonight we are staying in a hotel in
downtown Santiago to relax and to enjoy the culture, art,
food & wine and (would you believe it) nightlife.
After these difficult, but rewarding
28 days we are proud and happy to say
IT IS FINISHED.
Thanks to all who have written in the
Guestbook. Those messages warmed our hearts and kept our
spirits high.
Make sure to enjoy the
slide shows of our Camino.
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