Kathmandu - Nepal

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On February 1, 2005, two weeks before we were to go to Nepal, the king of Nepal took control of the government and deployed troops around the homes of politicians. The capital was isolated with the international airport closed and all communications with the outside world were cut off. The Maoists rebelled in the streets against this coup d'etat.

Our trip to Nepal seemed canceled. However, two weeks later, the situation had improved and we flew on a modern European Airbus from Varanasi to Kathmandu, Nepal. We stayed in the Radisson Hotel.

We received a lei on arrival

Flowers and spices arranged on hotel lobby floor

Hotel Ganesha

Nepal is sandwiched between Tibet on the north and India on the south. It is among the poorest and least developed countries in the world with nearly half of its population living below the poverty line (with, as of 2004, a per capita income of just over US$250). Agriculture is the mainstay of the economy, providing a livelihood for over 80% of the population and accounting for 40% of GDP. Tourism is the second important source of income.

Nepalese people are mainly divided into two distinct groups the Indo-Aryans and the Mongoloids. Kathmandu Valley is the spiritual and cultural meeting point of all these groups. Nepal is the only Hindu Kingdom in the world. Hindu Temples and Buddhist shrines are scattered all over the kingdom. Nepal is the birthplace of Lord Buddha, the Light of Asia. The 2004 census identified 80% of the population as Hindu and Buddhism was practiced by about 12% (although many people practice a blend of the two religions).

Boudhanath
This is the largest Stupa in Nepal and one of the biggest in the world. A stupa is a Buddhist religious monument consisting of a hemispherical base, and a square top with a pagoda-style roof. From it the eyes of Buddha look in four directions. They represent his invisible power. At the position of the nose is a question mark. It is actually the #1 in Nepalese language. It represents the unity of the universe.

The Stupa and square is a popular religious hub of the considerable population of Tibetans. Many of these Tibetans are refugees who fled their country following the unsuccessful uprising against the Chinese invaders in 1959. This is one of the few places in the world where Tibetan culture is both accessible and unhindered.

Stupa with the eyes of Buddha

Tibetan monks everywhere

Nice kids. Spoke some English

You see prayer wheels everywhere in Kathmandu. Around the stupa there were dozens. Tibetan Buddhists believe that saying the mantra (prayer), Om Mani Padme Hum (pronounced Om Mani Peme Hung), out loud or silently to oneself, invokes the powerful benevolent attention and blessings of Chenrezig, the embodiment of compassion. Viewing the written form of the mantra is said to have the same effect. Spinning the written form of the mantra around in a Mani wheel (or prayer wheel) is also believed to give the same benefit as saying the mantra.

Our "Wheel of Fortune" is derived from this

Click on each wheel to hear the mantra in different versions Believers say that just touching and turning a prayer wheel brings incredible purification and  unbelievable merit

The mantra Om Mani Pädme Hum is very powerful, because it contains the essence of the entire teachings of Buddha. When you say the first syllable Om it is blessed to help you achieve perfection in the practice of generosity, Ma helps perfect the practice of pure ethics, and Ni helps achieve perfection in the practice of tolerance and patience. Päd, the fourth syllable, helps to achieve perfection of perseverance, Me helps achieve perfection in the practice of concentration, and the final sixth syllable Hum helps achieve perfection in the practice of wisdom". Dalai Lama.

Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple
This stupa temple sits on a hill overlooking Kathmandu, accessed by a steep endless stone staircase. Around the square are many temples, prayer wheels and shops.

Entrance guarded by Buddha	365 steep steps seem endless	Monkeys everywhere
Stupa dome. A lotus flower is painted in yellow.	Prayer flags everywhere	Small Stupas and souvenirs
Burning candles
School girls spinning prayer wheels	Henna hand painting for $1

On my way down I had my hand painted with henna. It was done like cake decorators do, with a gel from a tube. I had to let it dry for an hour to interact with my skin . After washing the gel off, the pattern was etched into my skin. It lasted almost two weeks.