Cuzco

We flew from Lima to Cuzco. The flight took only one hour. Cusco is located in a fertile valley, in the southwest of the Andes at an elevation of 3,360 meters (11,000 ft). This elevation took some getting used to. Especially on the first day, when climbing some of the steeper streets. But it was nothing a cup of coca leaf tea could not cure.

History
Cuzco's beauty, history and traditions are amazing. Once the capital of the Incan Empire, Cuzco has existed for nine centuries under Incan and Spanish rule. Today, Cuzco is a thriving Quencha Indian town that possesses a very strong sense of history and identity. The city's Inca walls and ruins, historic buildings and Incan descendants in traditional garb provide a retrospective of its dynamic cultural history. Visitors can learn of Andean folklore and Inca traditions, experience delicious typical meals, and view monuments that haven't changed much since the time of the Incas.

City plaza view from the hills

Plaza de Armas

Cathedral on plaza

Architecture
The city has magnificent repositories of colonial art such as the cathedral (begun in 1559) and La Merced Church. There are also the Coricancha ruins, east of the city center, which were formerly covered with gold (the stonework is all that remains) and the Museo de Arqueológia, the interior of which is filled with metal and gold work, jewelery, pottery, textiles and mummies.

Church of the Jesuits

Church and archway

We bought her self-made dolls

The Church of the Jesuits ( La Compañía) was built over foundations of the palace of Inca ruler Huayna Capac. It is considered to be an outstanding example of Arequipa Baroque architecture.

Steps to the Cathedral

East Plaza

Calle Loreto. Huge 12 corner stone in Inca wall

Calle Loreto still conserves the Inca walls from the Acllahuasi, the House of the Chosen Women, or Virgins of the Sun. Royal concubines, these women wove vicuña and alpaca garments for the Inca ruler and brewed his chicha, beer made from corn. Some bore his children.

Driven by a greed for gold, Francisco Pizarro led his Spanish conquistadors into Cuzco in 1533 and found a stunning city of great stone buildings, lavish palaces and temples, and the humble homes of ordinary people. The richest temple was Koricancha, dedicated to sun worship and lavishly decorated with gold and silver. The plundering of Inca treasures and desecration of Inca temples began immediately. The conquistadors melted down precious gold and silver artwork. Although most Inca buildings were demolished, some stonework survived as foundations and walls of new colonial buildings and churches.

Modest homes, away from the center

Some straw roofs, but most have barrel tiles

Carved door

If you move further away from the city center the poverty becomes much more visible.

Homes near the hills

Unpaved streets

Hoping for a sale

Inca heritage
The heritage of the Inca empire can be seen in Peru today not just in the surviving stones of Inca buildings. It endures in the living descendants of the Incas who still work the land and speak the Inca language Quechua. Despite conquistadors, religious pressures and the westernized society in many Peruvian towns, the memories of the Incas are kept alive in Andean culture.

Festivals galore

Festival dancers

All smiles

Open market

Photo opp

Ladies in Waiting

Night time at Cuzco
Cuzco has an incredible night life with numerous places staying open until the sun rises. There is a clear police presence late at night, which dispels the rumours that Cuzco can be dangerous at this time.

Restaurants are on every street corner and are ridiculously cheap. We ate in local restaurants, away from the tourists trail. Excellent three course meals and a bottle of wine for the two of us for less than $10.

Peru has several unique national dishes. Cerviche is raw fish marinated in enough lemon, chilies and garlic to keep it fresh. Cuy, grilled whole Peruvian guinea pig (usually served with a cherry tomato in its mouth) is another delicacy. Lomo saltado (chopped steak fried with onions, tomatoes and potatoes), fried pork or chicken is also on the menu.

Probably the most popular place in town is the Mama Africa Pub, opposite our hotel on the plaza. It is one of the few places where both the locals and gringos share drinks. There are four bars, and a restaurant to keep you occupied while waiting for the tradition band to start. Click here to see the local band perform.

Church on Plaza

Fountain in plaza at night

Street behind our hotel